This blog post was written by Lyndsay Amat, Kaitlyn De Sousa, and Gwen Merry, members of WHEN’s volunteer editorial team.
WHEN advocates for all women, trans, cis, and Assigned Female at Birth (AFAB) individuals. For the purposes of this blog post, the term ‘women’ shall refer to those with ovarian reproductive systems and/or those who identify as women, recognizing that both sex and gender affect one’s vulnerability to the impacts of fast fashion.
Clothing can offer a fun, creative outlet to express our personal style. Of course, it also gives us the necessary protection to face weather conditions, such as extreme cold, rain, and snow. However, something that often gets overlooked is how clothes impact our health and the health of those involved in their production and disposal.
Our clothes can have serious impacts on our health. Humans are exposed to potential health risks from clothing during production, everyday wear, and at the end of their lifecycle. The table below shows some of the ways that different toxins within clothing can impact various aspects of our health.
Certain chemicals, called per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), or “forever chemicals,” are found in many items that we use daily, including our clothes. They are used in clothes to make them resistant to water and oil, and to make our clothes more durable. PFAS are used widely in activewear and outerwear.
Image from 4sustainability
PFAS in clothing have been found to cause oxidative stress. Oxidative stress causes normal cells to turn into cancerous ones. It is important to note that scientists are still studying the long-term effects of PFAS, as new research continues to reveal previously unknown health risks. However, literature does find that exposure to some PFAS may increase the risk for certain cancers. VOCs are toxic gases that are released from chemicals, causing health risks such as headaches, dizziness, and skin irritation.They are present in the ink on printed clothes and can be released through washing and airing out.
Heavy metal exposure from clothing is also a concern. Heavy metals can be used when dying clothing, tanning leather, and treating the clothes. They can also be found in natural materials such as cotton and hemp as a result of exposure to metals within the environment and soil. We are exposed to many heavy metals, often in amounts which do not negatively impact our health, but exposure to these chemicals can become toxic in high quantities. Exposure to these chemicals can happen at any point throughout the supply chain - while making the clothes, while wearing them, and while disposing of them. A study investigating heavy metals within T-shirts found that concentrations of lead, copper, and chromium in some shirts were above the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 suggested maximum value, which verifies whether or not a piece of clothing is safe for human health. However, if substances exceed the maximum amount, they cannot be certified. Thus, clothing that fails the certification process could negatively impact human health. Clothing is not required to be OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified to be sold. So, checking for this certification can assure that a piece of clothing is safe to wear.
Health impactS: Production
The fast fashion industry often relies on outsourcing low-cost labour, relying on marginalized women and children to meet production demands. Out of the 74 million textile workers globally, 80% of them are women of colour. Due to poor regulations in developing countries, these workers are forced to deal with many occupational hazards. In the Global South, racialized women and women of low socioeconomic status are exploited through unlivable wages, poor working conditions and abusive management. The working conditions of many women in these garment factories have a devastating impact on their health.
In factories where the treatment of textiles occurs, such as through dyeing and printing, workers are exposed to thousands of synthetic chemicals daily. Without proper safety regulations and personal protective equipment (PPE), they face both immediate and long-term health risks. During textile production, workers are at risk of both acute and chronic health issues from exposure to pesticides and other chemicals
One of the most common health concerns for garment workers is respiratory disease, caused by inhaling toxic fumes. Many of the chemicals used in the production of fast fashion releases hazardous vapours in the air, damaging the lungs and leading to chronic lung conditions.
Another health concern is through direct skin contact with dyes and other chemicals, leading to chemical burns, rashes, and dermatitis. Chemicals absorbed through the skin or inhaled can accumulate in the body over time, increasing the risk of reproductive disorders, neurological disorders, and other chronic illnesses.
Prolonged exposure to heavy metals and synthetic chemicals can cause various types of long-term damage. For example, research has shown that textile workers have a 40% higher risk of developing gastric cancer compared to the general population. Other research has shown that workers in factories where fabrics are coloured and printed on have an increased risk of genetic damage and mutations, leading to cancers, as well as a higher mortality rate.
Not only are workers impacted within their workplace, but they can also impact people in their homes. Chemicals from work may settle on the workers’ clothing, shoes, and skin, bringing these hazardous substances into their homes and into contact with other people. Family members may now experience secondary exposure to these toxins placing them at risk of various skin conditions, developmental delay, etc.
The textile industry also impacts local environments and can lead to increased health risks. Dyeing textiles releases heavy metals and other toxins into waterways, which negatively impact nearby communities. Air quality also deteriorates due to emissions from manufacturing processes, leading to a greater risk of health issues among workers and nearby residents.
A GreenPeace protest in front of Zara.
Photo: Huffington Post
Health Impacts: Everyday Use and Study on Fast Fashion
An investigation done by Marketplace with the University of Toronto found that, out of 38 samples of children’s and adult’s clothing and accessories, one in five items had high and concerning levels of chemicals - including lead, PFAS, and phthalates. For example, a jacket for toddlers purchased from Shein contained almost 20 times the amount of lead that Health Canada says is safe for children. Lead can be used in textile dye pigments and can cause damaging health effects to the brain, heart, kidneys, and reproductive system. Children and pregnant women are more vulnerable to these negative impacts and are most at risk. In another example, they found high levels of phthalates in items such as a children’s dress from Shein. Children are more exposed to these chemicals because of their tendency to not only suck on clothing but absorb it through their skin. These findings highlight the need for stricter regulations to protect our most vulnerable populations from preventable harm.
Health Impacts: Clothing at the End of their Lifecycle
The harms associated with fast fashion continue up to the end of their lifecycle. Close to 90% of the fibre used for clothing purposes either ends up in the landfill or is incinerated.
Landfills leach chemicals into soil and water and affect local populations. When textile waste in landfills is burned, petrochemicals and dioxins are released into the air. This practice has serious health consequences for residents living close to the landfill, where there are higher rates of specific forms of cancer, defects at birth, and respiratory diseases.
Landfills are also more likely to be located close to low-income or predominantly non-white neighbourhoods. Therefore, environmental harms from landfills impact marginalized communities disproportionately. This uneven harm is a common pattern that reflects the broader issue of environmental racism. An example of this issue is the Shelburne landfill, which for 75 years has operated in the predominantly Black community of Shelburne, Nova Scotia, where most African Nova Scotians live. Although the dump closed in 2016, the community still deals with the long-term effects, including water contamination.
There is limited research on the impacts of the Shelburne landfill on residents’ health. However, local voices of people affected by these toxins have spoken up about its devastating legacy on their community. Louise Delisle, born and raised in Shelburne, says the community faces long-term health effects. According to Delisle, most of the men in the community have died, leaving behind a “community of widows.”
What Can We Do?
Repairing What We Already Have
Protesters Against Fast Fashion
Photo: Niklas Halle'n/AFP/Getty Images
Repairing and thrifting are great options to reduce purchasing clothes that put workers and communities at risk during production. As consumers who often do not experience the same level of consequences, we tend to make purchases based on the convenience of purchasing something new and inexpensive, rather than finding ways to repair our clothes. However, taking the time to repair clothing with intention can be rewarding. Learning how to make quick fixes to our clothing can leave us with a sense of self-accomplishment and save us money at the same time. If you are not familiar with how to sew, you could use this opportunity to spend time learning from someone with the knowledge or from easy-to-follow tutorials online.
It is important to recognize that traditional gender roles still shape how we think about changing our purchasing habits. A study on Canadian and American consumers found that women are more likely than men to repair clothing themselves, and older men were more likely to have another person do the mending. This reflects a deeper pattern of labour and expectations that are present even in sustainable efforts, which are rooted in gender norms, since sewing and mending clothes are often seen as a part of the domestic roles that have historically been placed in the hands of women. Sustainability often relies heavily on personal responsibility, but doesn’t really acknowledge the unequal ways that this responsibility is distributed.
Repairing clothes is not just about mending fabric, replacing buttons, or fixing seams; it is about mending a broken system that prioritizes profits over people’s health. By choosing to repair and repurpose what we wear, we are not only extending the life of our clothing, but we are choosing a more sustainable and equitable future for our closets and communities. This can be a valuable and empowering act, but it is also important to challenge the expectations that come along with who is expected to do that work, and how we can promote these skills for everyone to learn.
Thrift stores and community clothing swaps are a great alternative to purchasing new, if your clothes are beyond repair. However, the rise of resellers has polluted the landscape of thrifting and has reinforced the cycle of waste. Community clothing swaps are a cost-effective way to find unique pieces and foster connections. When purchasing new clothing, the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a great tool to check the potential risks of your clothing, as it ensures clothing has passed tests for harmful substances such as PFAS and lead.
Being intentional with the care and consumption of our clothes benefits our health and those who produce our clothing. While patching a hole may seem to make a small difference, this act is impactful within the collective move away from fast fashion the collective move away from fast fashion.
Advocating for Stronger Protections
It is not necessary to use PFAS in everyday clothing. The development of new technology has provided alternatives that don’t sacrifice quality. It is disappointing that many clothing companies continue to use harmful chemicals, despite the evidence of their serious health risks. With alternative options available that serve the same function, we have to question why the industry continues to engage in toxic practices. In fact, information about these alternatives are readily available, and National Geographic lists several brands that don't use PFAS in their clothing. As consumers, we need to demand stronger regulations that prioritize public health and safety and go beyond voluntary phase-outs. Governments must implement clear bans on PFAS and require full chemical transparency throughout the supply chain. We shouldn’t have to be exposed to understudied chemicals because we want to wear a nice, functional raincoat. If safer options exist, companies have a responsibility to stop using unnecessary toxic chemicals in everyday products.